E-Bike Range Calculator: Distance, Time and Wh per km

How far the battery goes, how long that takes, and whether the ride you are planning fits.

1

What are you riding?

2

Battery

Wh
Printed on the battery, or volts × amp-hours.
3

Weight

kg
kg
kg
4

The ride

km/h
5

Your range

You should get about

—km

Ride time
—

At your average speed

Consumption
—

Wh per km

Usable energy
—

km
Advanced: wind, temperature, battery health
km/h
°C
Most packs hold about 80% after 500–1000 full cycles.
Few people ride to a flat battery. 90% is a fair default.
Motor and controller losses. Around 80% for a mid-drive, a little less for a hub.

Range is battery energy divided by how fast you spend it. The battery half is easy — a 500 Wh pack holds 500 Wh. Everything interesting is in the other half.

How much of the work you do. The biggest lever by far, and the one most calculators ignore. In Eco the motor covers roughly a quarter of the effort; in Turbo it covers three quarters; on a throttle it covers all of it. That alone is a three-to-one swing in range on the same battery.

Speed, and then speed again. Air resistance rises with the cube of speed, so going from 20 to 30 km/h more than triples the drag power. This is why a 250 W European pedal-assist uses 3–6 Wh/km and a fat-tyre throttle bike at 32 km/h uses 15–20.

Weight and hills together. Weight barely matters on the flat and matters enormously uphill, because lifting mass is the one cost you cannot get back — you brake on the way down.

Cold. A lithium pack does not use more energy when cold, it holds less. At freezing you lose over 10% of capacity, and you get it back when it warms up.

Kilometres for a 100 kg total on a city e-bike, rolling terrain, 22 km/h. A sanity check only — the calculator adjusts for your own numbers, and terrain and speed move these a lot.

Battery Eco Tour Sport Turbo
400 Wh 80 km 50 km 36 km 30 km
500 Wh 100 km 63 km 45 km 38 km
625 Wh 125 km 78 km 56 km 47 km
750 Wh 150 km 94 km 68 km 56 km
1000 Wh 200 km 125 km 90 km 75 km

Multiply by 0.62 for miles. Mountainous terrain or a strong headwind can halve any of these.

Trek, Specialized, Giant and the rest all publish range tools, and most of them run on Bosch's or Shimano's numbers underneath. They are good, and worth using for your exact bike — they know its motor map and battery.

Two things to know when you compare them with this one. Their quoted maximums assume minimum assist, flat ground, a light rider and a new battery all at once, which is why the headline figure is often double what people get. And they cannot know your weight, your route or how hard you pedal, which between them matter more than the bike does.

This calculator is checked against Bosch's own range assistant: for an 800 Wh battery in Eco+ at 12 mph on a hilly route with a 220 lb total, Bosch gives 152 miles and this lands within about 4% of it.

In rough order of how much they are worth:

Drop an assist level and pedal harder. Worth more than everything else on this list combined.

Slow down. Three or four km/h off your average is a surprising amount of range, because drag goes with the cube of speed.

Check your tyre pressure. Soft tyres are pure loss — our tyre pressure calculator will get you to the right number.

Carry less, and keep the battery warm in winter. Bring it indoors before you leave rather than starting from a cold shed.

Anticipate. Every stop throws away the energy you just spent getting up to speed, and in town that is a real share of the total.

How far will a 500 Wh e-bike go?

Roughly 40 km in Turbo on hills and up to 100 km in Eco on the flat, for an average rider and bike. The assist level you use decides most of it.

How do I work out watt-hours from volts and amp-hours?

Multiply them. A 36 V 14 Ah battery is 36 × 14 = 504 Wh. Switch the battery input to V × Ah above and it does it for you.

How long does an e-bike take to cover a distance?

Distance divided by your average speed — the calculator shows the ride time alongside the range. Average speed is well below top speed once stops, junctions and hills are in it: 18–22 km/h is typical for commuting even on a bike that assists to 25.

Why is my real range worse than the maker's figure?

Those figures assume minimum assist, flat ground, a light rider, no wind and a new battery, usually all together. Change any one and the number falls. Your weight, your route and how hard you pedal matter more than which bike you bought.

How much range does cold weather cost?

Around 10–15% near freezing and up to 30% well below it. The energy is not gone, just unavailable while cold — keep the battery indoors until you set off and you will get most of it back.

Does a bigger motor use more battery?

Only if you use it. A 750 W motor ridden gently draws much the same as a 250 W one at the same speed. What drains a battery is high assist and high speed, not the rating on the motor.

A simplified, open-source version of this tool is on GitHub — the range model as readable, dependency-free code, with tests and a walk-through of how the sums work. Free to read, fork or build on. View the source on GitHub →